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Roses are heavy feeders and need adequate water. They prefer bright sunny days, cool nights, moderate humidity and absence of strong winds. They are best grown in well-drained soil rich with organic matter.

Irrigate daily until the plant is established. Then irrigate evenly to keep the soil moist.

Watering

Roses grow best in rich, well-draining soil. They need regular watering, even in mild weather. Water early in the day to reduce fungal diseases. When watering, avoid wetting the foliage. Instead, use a soaker hose or a slow-moving stream. A layer of coarse mulch also helps reduce fungal diseases and retains moisture in the soil.

Rose plants are woody perennial flowering plants in the genus Rosa, with over three hundred species and tens of thousands of cultivars worldwide. The flowers are usually scented and have five petals. Many species have prickles on their stems, although these are not true thorns, being vestigial outgrowths of the epidermis. Some species, such as Rosa rugosa and Rosa pimpinellifolia, have densely packed straight prickles, possibly an adaptation to reduce animal browsing.

Safed jamun (Syzygium samarangense) is a species of flowering plant in the family Syzygium. It is also known as wax apple, love apple, java apple and Semarang rose-apple.

Fertilization

Like most garden plants, roses require a regular supply of nutrients. This includes three primary nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) as well as secondary and trace elements. These are supplied by most garden soils, but they become depleted over time. Most gardeners add compost or other organic matter to the hole when planting roses. Then they add a liquid fertilizer (synthetic or organic) about a month later.

Generally, newly planted bushes need more fertilizer high in phosphorus to promote root growth than those already established. However, Smith says, you should avoid phosphorus that is so high it burns feeder roots.

Roses can suffer from a variety of diseases, including crown gall (Agrobacterium tumefaciens), which reduces plant vitality and inhibits blossom development. The infection is most often introduced to roses through contaminated nursery stock. It also spreads through wounds made during planting, pruning, and grafting, as well as through chewing insects and rodents.

Pruning

In most cases, roses do not require severe pruning. Climbers, however, should be pruned late in the dormant period, just as buds are beginning to break, to maintain two or three vigorous canes.

Be careful when pruning roses, as they are thorny and can get damaged. It is a good idea to wear gloves and use quality tools when pruning.

A regular spray program with a fungicide labeled for black spot is essential on all varieties of roses. Fungicides should be applied as soon as the weather turns wet, since rains spread spores from fallen leaves and stems.

The majority of pruning for repeat-blooming roses is accomplished in spring, after the danger of a hard frost has passed and before the forsythia and other early spring bloomers begin to grow. Depending on the climate, this could be as early as mid-February near the coast or as late as mid-April in the mountains. This timeframe is also the best window for pruning to minimize winter damage to emerging plants.

Harvesting

Rose flowers are harvested at the tight bud stage to maintain their color and fragrance. When the flower is fully open, it can dehydrate quickly. The harvesting time is dependent on the variety of the rose plant.

Roses need six hours of full sun a day and well-drained soil to thrive. They can also benefit from frequent pruning and good air circulation to reduce transpiration loss. In addition, they can be prone to fungal diseases and pests such as black spot and root rot. It is important to clean up diseased rose leaves and weeds regularly. Fungal spores can overwinter in the soil around an infected plant and return the following spring to infect new growth.

Aphids are an especially troublesome pest for roses. They can pierce the outer skin of the leaves and stems to feed on the inner tissues, causing brownish spots and leaf curling. They can be controlled with horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps, and by using beneficial companion plants such as garlic, allium, and tansy.